My First Rodeo… (and Mutton Busting?!)

Journal Entry #34

Jun 22, 2022

June 18, 2022

Last week we crossed from Utah into Colorado, coming across the border just north of the four corners area. We were on our way to a small campground just outside of Mancos, CO when we stopped in Cortez, a classic western Colorado ranching town, for lunch.

As we walked we couldn’t help but notice the large banner across Cortez’s Main Street:

92nd Annual Ute Mountain Roundup PRCA Rodeo - Montezuma County Fairgrounds - June 9-11th.

Hmmmm… Some quick internet research was immediately undertaken. It turned out that we were staying just 15 minutes from the fairgrounds on these exact days. We looked at each other and smiled. The answer was clear. Within the hour we had purchased tickets to our very first Rodeo.

Our tickets were for Saturday night— the closing night of the rodeo, reported to be nearly sold out. On Saturday afternoon, I contemplated my outfit. Most of the time we are in our standard hiking basics: pants or shorts, hiking boots, t-shirts. I figured I finally had an occasion to pull out a pair of my (many) cowboy boots from up in the “she-shed.” Exciting times! A sundress seemed appropriate given the searing heat and, of course, a hat! I don’t own a proper cowboy hat but the hemp, brimmed one I picked up in Tennessee seemed to fit the bill and give some relief from the sun. Even Tom stepped it up—he donned his best jeans, Frye boots, a button down shirt and a hat. Outsiders we definitely were, but we would make a reasonably good showing!

We decided to arrive early to the fairgrounds as we had no idea what to expect. The woman directing traffic suggested that we park in the far lot with the larger rigs. It was a dusty, hot walk to the arena. A heat wave had moved through southwestern Colorado; the high that day had been 96 (thankfully it was a dry heat!) But despite the scorching temperatures, a steady stream of trucks and cars were coming in.

The sprawling Montezuma County fairgrounds were set in a large flat valley with the San Juan Mountains serving as a classic and majestic western backdrop. Beyond the entrance to the Rodeo, a traveling amusement park was set up and in full swing; barkers calling out and the bright neon lights of the rides punctuating the dusky rose colored sky.

Once we entered the gates we explored the vendors at the base of the viewing stands. It was A LOT to take in: Food vendors serving Colorado beef everything- burgers, chili, hot dogs, BBQ, steak-on-a-stick. Pendleton Whisky, a rodeo sponsor, was offering whisky shots or whisky-n-cokes. Lots of Coors beer was on tap. Jose Cuervo Margaritas were being poured in plastic cups over ice. There were vendors selling all things rodeo— leather saddles and belts, felt cowboy hats, and red white and blue everything. There was a line to drop your tickets into the big lottery jar to win a new 2022 Dodge Ram Truck (clearly another rodeo sponsor). The booth that was my personal favorite was a snack stand with name that made me smile— “Suzy’s Snickety Snacks.” To the left of the stands was a stage with a local band, Sittin Shotgun, who would also be playing the after party.

We grabbed our margaritas and made our way to our seats. The stands, which sat about 5000, were nearly full. The announcer, Jody Carper, welcomed the audience and, as the star spangled banner was sung by a young local cowboy, a large screen played a videos of veterans overseas “protecting our fine nation.” A highly decorated local veteran stood in full salute to the flag. All of the audience removed their hats (and there were many many hats as you can imagine!)

Majestic western sunset as the Rodeo backdrop

Then, in tribute to the animals who would be participating that night, several of the best of the saddle bronc horses and their new foals and fillies entered into the ring, saddle-less and free. Jody gave a poetic description of each the adult horses’ storied lineage and wins. It was a beautiful site to watch them gallop in the ring, fillies following close to their mothers.

Somehow the combination of stunning mountains, beautiful horses and the swelling, earnest patriotism of the moment hit me. My east coast inner cynic fell away. My throat tightened a bit. I wiped a furtive tear.

The kickoff entertainment were the “kids events” - the warmups to get the clown MC introduced and to make sure everyone had a chance to grab food and requisite drinks before the main events.

The littlest kids participated in a stick horse race. The rules were simple. Keep your stick horse between your legs, run down the course, around Miss Rodeo Wyoming (she was a rodeo version of royalty, donned in white and gold chaps, matching fringed jacket and white hat, with a stunning mane of long blond hair) and back to the starting line as the finish of the race.

The audience was to count down: five, four, three, two, one, then yell “go!” and then the racers would be off! In a perfect scene of kiddie chaos and excitement, several of the children took off on the count of three and the MC/clown was scooping up the little tykes shouting, “git yer little self right on back to the startin’ line!” We haven’t yelled GO yet!” And with his mention of the word “GO” the rest of the kids took off! The audience cheered and laughed. None of it was a set up, but it was kind of perfect! One little guy ran right past Miss Wyoming and didn’t make the turn- —he just kept running. Eventually Miss Rodeo Wyoming went and collected him too.

The second kids event left me, well, without words. Have you heard of Mutton Busting? Being a rodeo neophyte I had not. Apparently this is a common and very popular kids event, for the slightly bigger kids in the range of four to eight years old. In this event, children are placed on the back of large (I’m guessing 150lb) sheep. They lean forward, holding onto the wool of the neck of the sheep (for dear life) and, as with bull riding, a gate is opened and they are released into the ring. The goal is to remain on the sheep for as long as possible as it tears around the ring trying to shake the child off. My mouth hung open the entire time. I didn’t even snap a picture. I was in disbelief. my cynical urban-dwelling self returned. I thought, “are these parents crazy? Encouraging their children ride angry sheep?!?”

The good news was that the children wore crash helmets. The other good news was as soon as the kids were thrown, two cowboys in the area literally grabbed the kid, stood him or her on their feet, dusted them off and made sure they got to their parents in one piece. Again, the audience went wild.

Mutton Busting! Photo credit: Chancey Bush

The winner was a 6-year old who was “interviewed” by the clown. He was asked his name.
“Rhett,” he said.
Did he have a Girlfriend?
“Nope.”
Did he want one?
“Nope.”
The clown joked with the audience “a young man of few, but sagely words!”
And so we were introduced to Mutton Busting.

The rodeo then moved to the main events. calf roping single, calf roping team, saddle bronc riding, barrel racing and the evening closed with bull riding.

I have occasionally seen some of these events in the past on the small screen, whether idly scrolling through TV channels or in images as part of the collective mythology that many Americans have of the “West” and what it means to be “western” or a “cowboy”. For me, rodeos were mostly an abstraction. And we decided to go see a rodeo mostly because we thought it would be a hoot, and it was just that. But it was more. Seeing these events live and watching both the magnificent animals and the skilled athletes was like watching a stunningly choreographed dance. I found it thrilling and mesmerizing. I was amazed by the calf roping - how the horse and rider worked together and the coordination and teamwork it required. I was in awe of the speed and precision of the barrel racing where the horse and rider become one. And there was the sheer beauty and power of the saddle bronc horses and the skill of the riders; you could feel the respect and admiration that the riders and the audience had for these powerful horses.

The bull riding was the finale and in this rodeo the bulls were the clear winners. None of the riders made it long on these beautiful beasts.

Every so often there was a reminder that we were outsiders in very deeply red territory. After one of the shorter bull rides the announcer commented, “Well, folks, that ride evaporated as fast as a Joe Biden promise!”

And yet, even with these reminders of being “strangers in a strange land” there was also a welcoming, electric energy. It like a cross between a monster truck event, carnival, circus and tent revival. At one point, Jody asked us all to turn to the neighbors on our right and introduce ourselves.

“These times have been challenging times, friends,” he said. “We don’t all know each other but let’s do our best to love one another— we are here together to celebrate the athletes and these majestic animals on this beautiful day, so please smile and say hello to your neighbor.”

And we did.

You know what? Everyone did. The act was completely genuine - and the heart in it seemed somehow emblematic of the cowboy culture. In that moment we were welcomed to be a part of it… and it felt good.